Chris Benz
Benz isn’t a risk-averse designer. For fall, his models wore cropped and mussed matte wigs with long patent red gloves topped with lobster claw-shapes in place of five fingers. “Christmas specials in the ’60s and ’70s, and like a Judy Garland or a Dolly Parton character,” the designer offered as explanation. Deconstructed lamé and organza party dresses, “wacky” patchworks of beads, sequins, and paillettes, and what Benz called “the American take on couture draping” all made a showing. The collection is a departure for Benz, who generally focuses more on daywear. “Well, obviously I really love American sportswear and color and separates and all of that,” he added. “But I really feel like people have been wanting to dress up a little bit more. So for Fall, we focused a lot on the dress-up aspect and holiday parties.”
Kelly Wearstler
’80s punk hasn’t died in Kelly Wearstler’s world. Her new denim comes in six different shades of acid wash, and her brightly-hued fur collars are punctuated by hefty silver spikes. As for the less hard-edged options, Wearstler also served up her first knitwear, from classic cashmere sweaters with deep V-necks to merino wool sweaters embellished with wool spray epaulets.
Araks
Araks Yeramyan started crocheting this Summer, so it’s no wonder the knit technique appeared on the sleeves of dresses and in the form of dickies in her Fall collection. The garments of Mali in the ’50s, meanwhile, inspired her to work tiers and circle motifs into her culotte-heavy offering.
Bibhu Mohapatra
Trying his hand at a runway show for the first time, Mohapatra expanded his repertoire further from the gowns that he’s most known for. The early 20th century Chinese opera, The White-Haired Girl, served as inspiration for the fox fur diamond jackets and red-centric prints paraded out.
Thom Browne
Always one for a spectacle, Browne had ten models wearing his signature grey suiting emerge from ten coffins — which they stood next to as another group of models in avant-garde looks sleepwalked around them. Skirt suits had stiff, tent-like protrusions in the back; cartoon-like wool fox stoles were draped over shoulders; and elbows, breasts, and even knees had pointed cones sticking out of them. The finale look involved a stegosaurus-like spiked tail.
Rachel Roy
After seeing the documentary Women in the Dirt — about a group of women landscape architects who “took natural elements and put them into an urban setting” — Roy was inspired to mix natural elements with her own linear, architectural silhouettes for Fall. The natural took the shape of a sustainable flannel dress, striped in shades of green. “[It] makes me feel good about myself, [with regards to] the environment” Roy explained of her fabric choice. And as for the architectural, Roy’s favorite look was an electric purple evening suit: “Strong, slender, elongating pants with a vest turned backwards. It just feels so clean, a clean strong way to dress at night.”
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