Now that he’s had a few months to settle into his new home at LVMH, Nicholas Kirkwood is poised to rocket into new directions with a fresh range of silhouettes and categories. Despite an irresistible jewel-tone palette, Fall ’14 is less about whimsical color combinations (like we saw last season) than it is about shape, structure, and updated signatures.
One of Kirkwood’s latest obsessions, furniture by Constructivist artist Naum Gabo, provided ample fodder for a sculptural metal heel, a motif the designer magnifies and works in negative space as cutouts on black leather boots.
Not only is he bringing extra flourishes to his cocktail shoes with buckles or a slice of metal at the base of a heel, Kirkwood is also ramping up his red-carpet fare. “We’re thinking about metallics—they go with everything—crystals, and more true evening shoes as separate from cocktail shoes,” he explained. As for that much-awaited bag, Kirkwood offered, “A truly iconic bag will run for fifty years, but it takes time to find The One.”
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