Alix Thomsen likes going her own arty, eclectic way, opting for street casting and contemporary galleries over models and catwalks. She’s also recently dipped into an opera collaboration and signed on to do the decor of the Hôtel du Temps in the ninth arrondissement.
For Fall, the Thomsen collection took over the sprawling Emmanuel Perrotin art gallery in the Marais, where the designer presented living tableaux based on an ever-so-slightly-twisted art school theme. “They’ve had a really strict, theoretical education and they’ve been shut off from the world for a long time,” she explained of models who drifted dreamily among the installations, speaking to themselves or maybe no one in particular. In just five short years, Thomsen has grown from a capsule of shirts and jackets into a full-blown line. This season, the line gave us such unconventional options as a Perfecto dipped in pink paint, tie motifs recast onto a wrap dress, and a pinstripe suit turned into a coatdress. The hand behind the prints belongs to the Parisian artist Rafael Alterio, whom Thomsen met while working on the hotel. Colorful and graphic knits round out a pretty, feminine collection that’s still in close touch with its masculine side.
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