REDKEN’S UPDO-FRIENDLY HAIR POWDER

If there were one word to describe the hair at Jean Paul Gaultier’s spring 2012 show, it would be gravity-defying; Redken’s creative consultant Guido Palau created ‘50s-style sculpted rolls that circled models’ heads like crowns, adding a bit of height and some edge. It’s the type of coif that works on the runway, but risks falling flat—literally—when you try recreating it at home.
Since cloning Palau isn’t an option, Redken did the next best thing: They created Powder Grip 03, which gives tresses enough texture and fullness to handle dramatic updos. The product, which launches this month, is like a grittier version of hair powder, with just a little bit making a difference. “To me, Powder Grip 03 mattifying hair powder is genius—it creates maximum hold and volume, yet is so lightweight it feels like there’s nothing in your hair,” explains Redken’s Brand Ambassador (and owner of Cutler/Redken salons) Rodney Cutler. “The result is this larger-than-life texture that I could normally only create for my clients by layering in both a volumizing product and a hairspray. It’s the perfect solution whether you’re trying to achieve beachy texture and separation or build the base for a long-lasting updo, yet is easy to apply at home or on-the-go.”
To get overall matte texture (ideal if you’re not headed somewhere tropical for the holidays but want to look like you spent all week in the ocean), rub a small amount of powder into your hands before working it through your hair, with an added focus on the ends. For something a bit more dramatic—like the Gaultier greaser rolls or the French twist at Louis Vuitton (another Palau creation)—shake the product directly on your roots before styling. And if you’d just like to milk your blow-out for a few extra days, Powder Grip 03 can help with that, too: The matte finish makes it easy to go an extra day or two without washing.

News: Alessandra Ambrosio Is Pregnant

Alessandra Ambrosio is four months pregnant!  Which means she was already with child on the catwalk of November’s Victoria’s Secret Show, taking Miranda Kerr’s trimestrial turn at Balenciaga just one step further.  {The Cut}
These Oscar de la Renta earmuffs work double-time as headphones. {The Moment}
For those of you who crush on Marc Jacobs (the man, not the clothes) here’s a slideshow of swimsuit shots taken while the designer was vacationing in St. Bart’s with Rachel Zoe last week. {Fashionista}
If you’ve been dreaming of an Into The Gloss close-up without much understanding of how to get one, take inspiration from this French fashion student.  The innocent (though stylish) bystander drew attention for her fur coat outside of a popular downtown restaurant.  Easy as that!  {Into The Gloss}
Somehow it comes as little surprise to hear that this year’s most pirated films are also among some of the worst. {Gawker}
Ferragamo will exhibit 14 pairs of  Marilyn Monroe’s shoes in their Florence museum.  {WWD (Subscription Required)}

The eyes may be windows to the soul, but that’s all null and void if they’re sitting sadly under short lashes. There’s a reason why women slather on mascara, glue on falsies, and pay oodles of cash for extensions: long eyelashes are stunning.
LA’s Dionne Phillips kick-started the natural-looking extension trend when she applied custom lashes one-by-one on a very pleased Paris Hilton (Victoria Beckham, Katherine Heigl, Renee Zellweger, and Regina King followed). Now, the expert has launched a new D’Lashes “Lash It” Kit, which—in a handy cosmetic case—includes instructions and tools for attaching either “soft delicate” or “thick Sexy” options with special illuminated tweezers, a mirrored case, and hypoallergenic adhesive.
“This is the only kit like this out there,” explains Phillips, who worked tirelessly perfecting it. “The tweezers you won’t find anywhere else and it comes with two lash styles so you can go for a more natural look or pump it up.”  The best of both worlds!

Prada’s Girly Greased Lightning

Prada‘s just released their candy colored spring campaign. It’s less sweet than Louis Vuitton‘s sugary shots; Miuccia carried over the retro, Grease-like feel that dominated her spring collection, dropping her models into a thoroughly American gas station.  Six faces landed the huge campaign: Kati Nescher, Meghan Collison, Natasha Poly, Elise Crombez, Ymre Stiekema and Katryn Kruger all posed for Steven Meisel’s camera. A release said, “The gas station is cast as a central symbol in this post-modern crossroads of new horizons and economic fulfillment, a stage set where fashion, fantasy and the promise of new discoveries collide.”  Now we need a painted hot-rod to go with our flaming sandals…

Babies Are On A High Fashion Roll

Babies are living life in the fast lane thanks to an onslaught of miniature collections released this month.  And it’s about to get a whole lot better: WWD has reported that Fendi just signed a deal with chic Italian children’s manufacturer Inglesina. The partnership will include a line of strollers, prams, and baby carriers, all bearing the Italian brand’s “F” logo.
Rather than going with the traditional pink and blue colorways, Fendi’s baby products will come in the far more sophisticated shades of cream, mahogany, and blue.
The carriers are yet another score for the under-10 set, following Lanvin’s childrens’ launch that includes over 20 spring ’12 pieces for pint-sized girly girls.
In addition, just last week it was announced that Oscar de la Renta is about to design pieces for (highly discerning) stylish munchkins. And let’s not forget the Stella McCartney for Gap Kids collection, which had fans like Carla Bruni squeezing into the British designer’s pint-size military jackets and printed dresses.  Kids these days, they’re just on a roll.

Be Naughty! The Best Coal-Based Skincare

Perhaps this year you were more naughty than nice.  Well fret not!  And though you may be anticipating a stocking full of coal, it turns out that the dark, ashy rock is great for your complexion.  Not only does it reduce inflammation and normalize skin cell turnover, it also absorbs excess oils and acts as a natural exfoliator.
According to Dr. Joshua Zeichner, Director of Cosmetic and Clinical Research at the Mt. Sinai Medical Center, coal is a type of resin that’s been used as a dermatological treatment for over 2,000 years.
So in the spirit of the Grinch, we’ve rounded up a list of coal-laden products for you to try out this season. -Anna De Souza
Origins Clear Improvement Active Charcoal Mask draws out pore clogging impurities. {Sephora}
Boscia’s Revitalizing Black Hydration Gel absorbs excess oil with the help of charcoal – so it’s a great makeup base for those with oilier skin {Boscia}
Sumbody’s old school Coal Train Acne Cleanser powers away blemishes. It also purifying pores, soothing irritation and eliminating bacteria. {Cosmetic Mall}
Lush grinds up sustainable charcoal that’s imported from the UK for their Coalface Cleanser which helps absorb excess sebum and offers gentle exfoliation. {Lush}
Dab Dr. Ci:Labo’s Basic Black Charcoal Gel onto your T-zone twice daily to control sebum production. Created by renowned Japanese dermatologist, Dr. Shirono, this paraben and mineral oil-free gel minimizes the appearance of blemishes {Beauty.com}

Good Touch: 4 Touchscreen-Happy Gloves

It’s a vicious cycle for urbanites: Once we slip off mittens to use our iPhones, our fingers get too numb from cold to type properly. Thus, gloves are no longer perfunctory stocking stuffers.  Instead, the new touchscreen versions are so must-have that lines like Muji have sold out until next year. Luckily, the below are still around:
Echo They were the first company to print labels on a scarf in 1923, but their new Touch Gloves, which come in everything from a basic wool/nylon blend to leather and cashmere versions in rainbow colors with metallic pointer and thumb tips, are the wave of the future.
From $32
Agloves
Super conductive silver-nylon is woven throughout sparkly Agloves (in original, sport and new bamboo), so they’re responsive with touchscreen technology and also don’t leave smudges.
$23.00
Etre
The pointer finger and thumb are free for texting (and in the open air) with UK brand Etre’s lopped off woolen or cashmere Touchy options or, for typing with gloves on, choose the FIVEPOINT version with “Pearl” tips.
From about $55
Burton
For the slopes, skiers may covet Burton’s Touchscreen Liners in black (skip an iffy floral print!) for under bulkier gloves with fingerprint illustrations on thumb and pointer.
From $17.95

Sneak Peek: Kate Somerville’s Facial in a Bottle

They say it’s all in the delivery—that’s definitely the case for Kate Somerville’s new patent-pending DermalQuench Liquid Lift Advanced Wrinkle Treatment, launching this March. The celeb aesthetician gave ELLE.com a preview of this unique plumping product, designed to mimic the results of her LA Skin Clinic’s Dermal Quench facial. Here’s what we found:
First, this isn’t shaped like any product we’ve ever seen; it looks almost like a machine.  You’re meant to shake the bottle and from a half-inch or so away, spray this cool, fizzing serum-like product in lines across your cheeks and forehead from a long protruding spout. (If you’ve ever had an oxygen facial, the chilly burst-of-air sensation may feel familiar.)
We used it in the morning and night for a week and saw a noticeable plumping out of lines around the eyes, as well as increased glow.
Apparently, with this newfangled delivery system, the special Hydrafill combination of oxygen, antioxidants, hyaluronic acid (for hydration) and something called perfluorocarbons, or PFCs (that act like temporary fillers) seep deeper into the skin.
It may be the holiday eggnog speaking, but we’re still thanking Kate.

Can You Blame Your Partner For Your Drinking?

You already know that the key to surviving things like office holiday parties and meeting the parents is a strict, two drink limit.   Among other things, it guarantees a sense of control as well as a lack of regret come morning. But when your significant other’s downing one drink after another, it turns out you’re more likely to follow suit.  According to a new study conducted by researchers at Dalhousie University, your romantic partner can have a powerful influence on how much you binge drink.
The researchers studied 208 non-married, heterosexual couples in their early 20’s. Each couple had to be dating for at least 3 months, have face-to-face contact at least 5 days a week, and one had to be a college student. On average, couples were dating for close to 2 years.  Over a 28-day period, the researchers were able to predict one partner’s binge drinking based on the other person’s excessive drinking.
Surprise! They figured out that binge drinking in college students occurs in both men and women—but neither is more or less responsible than the other.  “Studies with married couples show that men have more of an influence on women, but in our study, we found both young women and young men influence their partner’s binge drinking,” researcher Aislin Mushquash said in a statement.
It sounds like a clear case of a “but everyone’s doing it” kind of mentality, but there’s also a sense of comfort when partnered with someone you know so well.  “In some respect this is a cautionary piece of research: pick your friends and lovers carefully because they influence you more than you think,” says Dr. Simon Sherry, assistant professor in the Department of Psychology.  In other words, birds of a feather need not flock together—careful who you take to your holiday parties this week!

What to Buy A Fashion Freak: Lanvin Doll

When we check Net-a-porter first thing every Monday, Wednedsay and Friday morning, we expect to find brilliant treasures like this neon Christopher Kane dress or a Proenza Schouler beach towel.  But sometimes there’s an extra special find, like today’s Miss Lanvin doll.
The porcelain figurine is selling for $585, just a fraction of the cost of this Lanvin pajama set, but enough to score you this cute polka dot clutch.  The porcelain is adorned with faux pearls and crystals, and Miss Lanvin’s accompanied by a pink flamingo on an emerald encrusted chain.  There are only 800 of the dolls, and each comes in a blue box with a certificate of authenticity (is there a growing market of fake designer dolls?).
So if you have one crazy diehard fashionista left on your holiday shopping list, you’re welcome.

Dolce & Gabbana Will Not Be Courting the Masses

It’s been an interesting year for Dolce & Gabbana. The brand’s produced one successful collection after another—including one of the most photographed—but its designers, Domenico and Stefano, were sued for tax evasion. They shuttered their D&G collection, not because it wasn’t profitable but so that they could focus on their mainline, while most designers are scrambling to add contemporary lines to their portfolios.  They talked to WWD about their 2011; we’ve highlighted the most interesting points below—and don’t hold your breath for a high street collaboration.
On closing D&G: “To have a stronger brand, it must be one and the focus must be on that alone. Yes, some may think it’s a brave decision, but it came naturally to us, and we had been thinking about it for the past three years.”
On the possibility of couture: “No, not really. We just launched a jewelry line, and there are other products in the pipeline: a project we will present by March or April, and many with [beauty licensee] Procter & Gamble for example, and much more…but I can’t say anything now.”
On youth: “We have young assistants in their 20s, we toss them in the midst and they help show a different point of view. It’s the ingenuity or “ignorance” of youth that should be heeded in every field because it helps you see things in a different light. We always ask young people for their opinion. It’s very important.”
On elegance: “Recently, it’s all “trusciume” [in Sicilian, cheap, trashy] — there’s no quality, these fast-fashion companies churning out looks. People thought it was cool, but it’s cheap. You can’t expect quality at 20 euros [$27]. It’s like good codfish at 5 euros [$6.70] — how can it be? But it’s not a matter of price. Elegance is intellectual; it’s about good taste, the cut, proportions, quality, how you carry yourself.”

RICKY’S GIVES IT TO YOU STRAIGHT

Between the gift buying, present wrapping, eggnog partying, and flight-home wrangling, the last thing anyone wants to deal with this month is getting their hair shiny and straight. So consider Revolver Salon at Ricky’s NYC’s latest promotion an early holiday present: This month, all blowouts are just $25.  While Ricky’s is technically celebrating the opening of two new Revolver Salons—one is in the East Village, the other is on the Upper West Side—you probably don’t need a reason to indulge in this deal. Blowouts normally go for $35 to $45 at the beauty supply store-cum-salon, depending on the head. The salon now has 11 locations, including one in Miami and another in New Jersey (the rest are scattered throughout three of the five New York boroughs), so it shouldn’t be too hard to squeeze in an appointment before heading out to your office holiday party or kicking off New Year’s Eve festivities. Plus, it makes multitasking easy; pick up stocking stuffers and TSA-approved mini bottles of your favorite products on your way out.
Just choose your moment wisely: There’s a limit of one specially priced blowout per customer, and there’s no return option—once 2012 rolls around, the deal’s done.

' Hunger Games’ Gets Its Own Parody Site

The fashion blogosphere has stumbled upon The Hunger Games‘ parody site, The Hunger, but Mainly Death, Games, now that they’ve whipped up a batch of hilarious nail polishes to go along with their other jokes. The site’s gone all out, mocking the apocalyptic young adult series with fake trailers, book covers and even full chapters of alternative novels.  “I mean, this thing is a death tournament, I have no idea why they call it the Hunger Games,” says a voice over on the video clip, “Ok, act scared!” while an opening chapter reads: “My quilt is missing. I lie there in the dark, rubbing my eyes, trying to think of where it could have gone.  I hope it didn’t disintegrate, I think. After all, it’s only some pieces of wet newspaper. I reach out through the gloom, and find my answer: Pigrose, the disgusting little street urchin, has stolen it from me. Pigroseis also my beautiful little sister. As I lie here, shivering in the cold, I am left with one thought: Could life get any worse? Actually, it could. Because all of a sudden, I remember that today isno ordinary day. Today could end my very existence altogether.”
But it’s the nail polish line that will probably garner the most laughs—even if you plan on buying the actual Hunger Games polishes.  Nervous Tribute Yellow is inspired by Reaping Day while the disturbing Greasy Sae Surprise looks like brains.  Haymitch Silver is just a flask and Katniss’ Magenta is struck by an arrow, but Reminder Purple is our favorite.  The bottle says, “Reminder, this is a death tournament, not a fashion show.”

Elizabeth Taylor Auction Sets World Record

Last night, Christie’s held part one of their Elizabeth Taylor auction, selling off her extensive jewelry collection in New York City.  In total, the jewels sold for $116 million, more than twice that of any other private jewelry collection.
Taylor wrote in her book, My Love Affair With Jewelry, “I never, never thought of my jewelery as trophies. I’m here to take care of them and to love them. When I die and they go off to auction I hope whoever buys them gives them a really good home.”  If nothing else, their homes will be lavish.  The first item up for sale was a gold charm bracelet that sold for more than 13 times its estimated worth, a trend that continued as Cartier necklaces went for 20 times their worth and Bulgari bracelets eighteen.  As Constance Francesca Gabor Hilton, Zsa Zsa Gabor’s daughter, told The Telegraph, “If you’ve got money, why not?”
The 33.29 carat diamond ring that Richard Burton gave Taylor in 1968—and that she wore almost daily—fetched $8.8 million, but it was La Peregrina, a 50.6 carat drop-shaped pearl hailing from a line of Spanish kings that Burton bought for $37,000 in 1969 that earned the highest bid: $11.8 million.  The auctions will continue today with more jewels and Taylor’s collection of haute couture.

Versace’s Fruity Cruise Collection for H&M

That second Versace collection, the colorful cruise one that’s only launching in the select countries in which H&M has ecommerce, is finally here.
It’s full of the bright berry print seen on Abbey Lee Kershaw at left, as well as pastel dresses and stretchy tops with gold buttons (very 90s supermodel).  The men’s shirts feature the classic Versace print, and there’s jewelry, too.

Fekkai is Calling all Conditioners!

Courtesy of Frederic Fekkai

Follicle fact: It’s officially fall, and your hair’s probably been sent into a breakage-filled tizzy thanks to the weather’s flip-flopping between cold and humid— nature’s version of a GOP debate.

Fret not, the lovely folks at Frederic Fekkai are holding a ‘Calling all Conditioners’ day on October 27th at Saks Fifth Avenue stores nationwide.  If you bring in any full-sized conditioner, probably the one you’re currently using, they’ll give you an 8 oz. bottle of any Fekkai conditioning product—whichever one you want (which goes up to a $25 value).  There’ll also be Fekkai technicians on-hand for personal consultations, ensuring that you’ll pick the best product for your hair type.

Considering the wonders that Fekkai has done for our tresses recently, we suggest you scoot over to your local Saks and trade-in big time!

Carven Is (Re-)Launching Sunglasses

Photos: Imaxtree

Carven, the old French house recently re-invigorated by Guillame Henry, will put those sunglasses from their spring 2012 runway into production early next year.  The round shades are even more retro than Henry’s charming designs and will come in everything from basic black and tortoise to hot pink and neon green—most topped off with gold rims.  ELLE UK reports that there will be 12 styles of eyeglasses and 13 sunnies.  But if you don’t want to wait until next spring to sport Cs on your shades, eBay has a surprising amount of original Carven frames from the 50s through the 80s.  They range in price from $34 to $129 and some even feature a braided gold rim.

Ferragamo’s Making Shampoo Now

Photo: Waldorf Astoria

Starting in January, if you stay at a Waldorf Astoria hotel, your bathroom will be stocked with Salvatore Ferragamo amenities.

The hotel chain’s partnered with Ferragamo Parfums on a line of products, including an Eau de Toilette, for each property.  It’s Ferragamo’s first beauty and grooming collection, and a spokesperson for the hotel said, “We searched the globe for a perfect amenities brand partner that delivers the timeless luxury experience that Waldorf Astoria guests have come to expect…We found that partner in Salvatore Ferragamo.”  Considering brands like Hermès and Bulgari produce amenities, that’s quite a vote of confidence.

Alongside shampoo and conditioner, there are face masks and mists, eyecream, lip balm and even bathrobes and towels.  A hint, perhaps, at next season’s goody bag?

Calvin Klein’s in the Hot Seat

Photo: Getty Images

Calvin Klein might be known for re-defining American style and pushing the envelope as far as provocative advertising goes—but the man is not known for granting interviews, at least lately.  Instead, one’s more likely to flip a magazine page and find Francisco Costa chatting about his modernist take on the classic brand (like in our November issue, with Chloe Moretz).

But Klein himself will be in the hot seat next Monday October 17th when he sits down for a talk with Fern Mallis, the former head of IMG Fashion Week (and current consultant).  Mallis may be well loved by the industry but we expect her to ask some tough—and interesting!—questions of the design legend.  She says they’ll talk about everyting from his childhood in the Bronx, to his earliest collections, celebrity clients, and career highs—with at least a few minutes devoted to Marky Mark!

The two will chat at the 92nd Street Y in New York City at 8PM.  Tickets are being sold for $29 online, or by calling (212) 415-5500.

A.L.C. Jewelry Hits Stores

Photo: A.L.C.

Andrea Lieberman, the stylist behind the well-loved label, A.L.C., has finally launched her jewelry collection.

It’s bowing in stores like Barneys and Shopbop now, and will no doubt attract the same customer who’s in love with her slouchy tees, comfortable but sexy dresses, and perfectly shaped leather jackets.

The collection, which ranges in price from $95 to $895, is hardware inspired; Lieberman was going for an “industrial chic” look.  That means screws, nails, knots and hex nuts in brass and silver.  

DIGBY & IONA RUFFLES FEATHERS

Photo: Digby & Iona

There was a moment mid-summer when it seemed that all possible plumage had been plucked in the name of beauty, with fishermen and PETA united for perhaps the first (and only) time.

If your attempts to get a feather extension were foiled—or you’d just rather not have a bird’s fringe bonded to your own tresses—there’s hope yet: Digby & Iona’s fall collection features three oxidized bronze and sterling silver necklaces, each with a dainty, be-feathered arrow. The plumage featured on these dainty arrows hail from the Blue Jay, the speckled Bantam, and the Cochlin (which is just a fancy term for a Chinese chicken).

If you’d prefer to keep your fowl references to just your Miu Miu dress, the new collection (dubbed “Me & My Arrow”) from the Maine-born, Brooklyn-based jewelry designer Aaron Ruff also includes a bow (as in the weapon, not the accessory) necklace and arrowhead-inspired rings, cuffs, and sapphire-studded necklace.

You’re not free from these flying animals entirely: To pick up a piece in-person, rather than online, you’ll have to visit Catbird boutique in New York.

Rafael Nadal’s Artistic Process

Photo: Armani

We’ve seen Rafael Nadal‘s Armani Underwear print campaign (above, if you needed a reminder, or a Friday pick-me-up) but what about the process? What about the work he put into getting those clothes off? Apparently, he started out in a tux, ran through a parking lot and stripped down to his briefs. Don’t believe us? Click through to watch

Shoe? Art? Or Investment?

Photo: Moda Operandi

This spectacular Charlotte Olympia shoe just went up for pre-sale on Moda Operandi. A few years ago, Suzy Menkes gave an interview in which she mentioned splurging on a pair of Vivienne Westwood platforms that sat on her mantle, as art. These are a worthy competitor, but would you wear them?  Something about the shape of that intricately woven heel looks, dare we say it, quite comfortable.

The Rugby World Cup gets a Dash of Fashion

A design by Romania's Andreea Musat

To most fashion-concerned Americans, rugby’s little more than an diffusion label that’s part of Ralph Lauren’s gargantuan empire.  So it may come as a surprise to hear that the Rugby World Cup is the world’s second most-watched sporting event.  The popular tournament is coming to a close in New Zealand next weekend and surprisingly enough, its culmination is being celebrated with a fashion show .  Taking place in Auckland near the cup’s main stage—the show, called Style Pasifika is an annual event that was tied to this year’s rough-and-tumble tourney.  It will feature a garment from most of the championship’s member nations, each one created of prized New Zealand wool.

While the USA was kicked out early on, it’ll still be represented in the show with an ensemble designed by Julie Chaiken of Chaiken & Capone—a label that’s well-loved for it’s sophisticated and simple sportswear.  ”They were looking for a designer typical of each country who could help promote New Zealand’s fabric industry,” Chaiken explained.  She’s created a blue shift and charcoal double-faced wool trench coat for the show, “I made the dress in blue instead of a whole outfit of red, white, and blue, because I definitely didn’t think that was something typical of American sportswear.”

Chaiken will share the runway with Japan’s Yohji Yamamoto, Ireland’s John Rocha, and England’s Elizabeth Emmanuel, who designed Princess Diana’s wedding gown.  While each of the looks are a one-off, they’ll be part of a public exhibition that’ll promote rugby and the nation’s fine merino wool. “Outside the US, American fashion doesn’t have the same impact.  Good American design isn’t necessarily trendy and has staying power, I don’t feel like fashion from all over the world is that way,” said Chaiken.  Other countries on the show’s roster include nations diverse as Fiji, Namibia, Tonga, and Samoa, and they too will provide domestically-designed garments constructed of New Zealand textiles.

So perhaps it’s time to start paying rugby some attention—beyond the masquerading racks of cotton jerseys.

TOKYO’S FASHION WEEK IS BACK AND BIGGER THAN EVER

Paul Smith takes a bow (or a fist pump?) at the end of his show in Tokyo last night. Photo: Getty Images

Make your way past the street style photographers, the greeters handing out the latest copy of WWD, the video of Jessica Stam being photographed by Terry Richardson atop a Mercedes-Benz, and the floor-to-ceiling ads for Maybelline featuring the faces of Charlotte Kemp Muhl and Christy Turlington, and you’ll finally arrive at the main runway. No, this isn’t New York Fashion Week—rather, it’s Tokyo’s new and improved Fashion Week.

The biannual event, which kicked off yesterday, nearly didn’t make it. Just seven months ago Japan Fashion Week’s fall 2011 was canceled.  It was scheduled to start just a few days after the devastating earthquake and tsunami that hit the Asian country back in March and aside from the obvious tragedies, and the somber mood that spread across the country, sewing and production plants were drastically affected and it wasn’t quite clear if designers would even be able to make a spring ’12 collection.  Then, in July, IMG took on the fledgling Japan Fashion Week. In addition to the slew of big-name sponsors (besides Maybelline, which signed a three-year sponsorship contract, DSL and ShopStyle are on-board), the event received a new name: Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Tokyo. Call it a superficial change, but it aligns this Fashion Week with several of the other upper-tier Fashion Weeks, including New York’s and Miami’s.

“We are expecting more connection with fashion weeks all over the world,” says Akiko Shinoda, Japan Fashion Week Organization’s director of international affairs, of the effect this re-branding will have. Indeed, it seems to already have had that effect: Paul Smith kicked off the festivities with his very first runway show in Japan Sunday afternoon (it was also the first time he showed his men’s and women’s collections at the same time). That the British designer joined the Tokyo line-up wasn’t a surprise to those who know him well; Smith has been visiting Japan since the early 1980s, and according to Shinoda, “He came to Japan by himself right after the disaster to support Japan, even though the British government did not want him to go. We think that his show in Japan is to encourage the Japanese industry.” Indeed, as Smith explains, he named the show I Love Japan “to give encouragement after a difficult time. I’ve been coming [to Japan] for so long, my heart…I just had to come. It was just so important to me.”

As to whether this will attract more foreigners—designers, buyers, and press alike—remains to be seen. Japanese label Etw. Vonneguet, which went ahead with its scheduled fall ’11 presentation in March, has seen a change in the number of ticket requests from those outside of Japan, with designer Olga noting, “All I can say is I totally understand the situation.” Shinoda, meanwhile, is hopeful: “We are getting more attention, especially on our website.”

Even if this week introduces the many things that have come to define the big four Fashion Weeks, it all comes down to the clothing. And for those designing, they don’t think that a new name will ultimately have too much impact on what is shown on the runway during Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Tokyo. “Nothing will change,” says Olga of the impact the added attention will have on her collection, adding, “even if our name of platform has changed.”

Shoe Wars: Blahnik Vs. Louboutin

Photo: Manolo Blahnik

The New York Times put Manolo Blahnik on the cover of their weekend style section, declaring the return of the comfortable, ladylike pump.  On the same day, the Times UK profiled Christian Louboutin, who basically says that women are thrilled to wear debilitating shoes—as long as they look great.

The two luxury cobblers have been pitted against each other for years.  Blahnik, who’d long been a favorite of the woman who has hundreds of dollars to spend on pumps, became a household name post-Sex and the City.  Manolos epitomized Carrie Bradshaw’s shoe fetish and were often featured in the series—in one case at the center of an episode—as well as the first movie.  But as the series wound down, Louboutin’s red soles gained traction in real life.  The Parisian offered whimsical shoes on 6″ heels with a never-before-seen pitch and soles that screamed, “I’m rich!”

But now, according to the Times and thanks to the economy, women don’t want their shoes to scream.  Instead, they want classic pumps in flattering shapes that are comfortable enough to wear throughout the day, which means Manolos are back.  Bergdorf Goodman has a wait list, Andre Leon Talley likens them to milk, “They’re a staple, something you have to have in your refrigerator, like butter or milk,” and SJP herself said of a recent photo shoot, “I walked in and looked around and saw all these shoes, and then I spotted the Manolos and it was like water in a desert.”

On the opposing side, Louboutin said in the Times, “A little discomfort is balanced by something else, which has to do with desire. You feel yourself, empower yourself, know yourself. You are aware of your body. This little act of discomfort pays off in lots of other ways.”

The truth is that the two happily co-exist, and there will always be a customer for each.  But regardless of where you stand on the debate, it should be noted that three pages into the Times‘ style section was a half page spread of neck-breaking shoes from designers like Alaia, Nicholas Kirkwood and Miuccia Prada snapped by Bill Cunningham during New York Fashion Week.  So who says you can’t have your basic black pump and lace-up Kirkwood bootie, too?