Visionaire Bridges the Gap

“We love the idea of treating the T-shirts like a canvas,” explained Visionaire‘s Cecilia Dean from the boardroom of the publication’s downtown headquarters. “So you would have the signature at the bottom and it will explain, ‘This is an artwork by Yoko Ono for Visionaire 63Forever.’” The shirts Dean is describing are the first five in a series of forty-five collectible tees that Visionaire has produced with Gap. The wares include a graphic, shining silver block with the tagline “Grow love with me” scrawled by Yoko Ono at the bottom; a Maurizio Cattelan and Pierpaolo Ferrari vision of Linda Evangelista as a religious icon; a stoic, standing panther photographed by Sølve Sundsbø; a chemical-etched skull by Craig McDean; and, unsurprisingly given the star’s continuous relationship with the brand, a rather eye-catching portrait of Lady Gaga by Inez & Vinoodh, which debuts exclusively above. Each image is printed in silver on the Gap’s classic, comfortably casual black tees, and they’re translated from originals from the all-metal, meant-to-last-forever Visionaire 63 tome, which debuted earlier this year.

Beaufille Breaks Through

Fashion currently boasts several talented sister acts (The Row, Rodarte, and Dannijo, for example), and Toronto-based Chloé and Parris Gordon are the latest sibling design duo making waves. After going by Chloé comme Parris for several seasons, the Gordons decided to relaunch their jewelry and ready-to-wear label as Beaufille, which means “handsome girl” in English. “We found ourselves in business pretty quickly after our graduate collection from design school (Nova Scotia College of Art and Design, in Halifax) was immediately picked up. Over the past few years, we’ve grown and changed—we got an outside investor and are looking at our business more internationally—so we wanted to take our names out of the brand and operate under and alias,” they told Style.com. “We’ve always designed for the effortlessly chic tomboy, and Beaufille combines the contrasting masculine/feminine, hard/soft elements that define our aesthetic.” The twosome divides the creative work evenly, with Chloé concentrating on clothing and Parris overseeing jewelry and accessories, and their standout items often combine both disciplines. The Spring ’14 lineup, which was reportedly inspired by the Renaissance and mob wives (specifically, Michelle Pfeiffer’s character in Scarface), featured silky tanks, skinny trousers, and inky brocade looks decorated with delicate chains, metal clasps, and other hardware details that tie in with the new range of semiprecious bijoux. Artist-slash-model Langley Fox (who turned up on the Marc Jacobs and Louis Vuitton runways this season) posed for the accompanying look book, which debuts here on Style.com. The Gordons said they “have admired Langley for a long time, mostly for her art, and loved collaborating with someone who shares an artistic point of view.”

Time to Take the Leap

Ah, the L.B.D. — so simple, so sensible, so ... snoozy. This holiday season, may we suggest the L.B.J.?

The little black jumpsuit is as easy as a dress: Throw it on and you’re out the door. Wear it to work with a blazer and, come evening, pile on baubles or add a knockout belt for instant party-worthy attire.

Jumpsuits are everywhere. It seems as if every designer has at least one to offer. Not so long ago, e-tailers were largely perplexed as to where to put the couple of random jumpsuits they bought — with dresses? with pants? — but now they’re listed in drop-down menus. Shopbop currently has 189 options, 87 of them black.

For Alexander Wang, a SoHo Housewarming Party

On Tuesday night, Alexander Wang, the new designer for Balenciaga, arrived for the opening of its SoHo store at 148 Mercer Street. It was heavy on the Italian green marble and limestone.

“I wanted it to convey a sense of timelessness and history,” Mr. Wang said.

Guests admiring the vast and imposing space, which served as an architectural backdrop to Mr. Wang’s first collection for Balenciaga, seemed to think he succeeded. One compared the 4,120-square-foot space to a bank vault. Another called it “superluxury, like being in Paris.”

Eddie Borgo Brings the Bling to Basel

“There’s this sort of mad dash to go from one event to the other,” said Eddie Borgo of Art Basel in Miami Beach. “But that’s not really my style.” What is his beat, however, is splitting his time between the art scene and the street—a testament to his high/low sensibility that’s sure to translate to his Basel capsule collection for The Webster. The range, which debuts exclusively here, will launch on December 4—Basel, day one, naturally.

Hunger Games Strike Net-a-Porter

The Hunger Games: Catching Fire opens on Friday night, and with it, more tie-ins than arrows in Katniss Everdeen’s quiver. There’s makeup from Cover Girl, nail polish from China Glaze, even subs from Subway—may the sandwiches be ever in your flavor! But the alliance that’s captured our attention around here is the one between the film’s costume designer, Trish Summerville, and Net-a-Porter. On Thursday, the Web site will begin selling Capitol Couture, a sixteen-piece ready-to-wear collection, plus accessories and jewelry, designed by Summerville. In the mix are a leather jacket and pants inspired by Cinna (a.k.a. Lenny Kravitz); an emerald green dress modeled after one worn by Johanna, the tribute from the Lumber District (played by Jena Malone); logo tees; and, of course, versions of Katniss’ chariot and mockingjay dresses. This isn’t Summerville’s first retail partnership; as the costume designer on The Girl With the Dragon Tattoo she created a tie-in collection for the fast-fashion chain H&M. But, as she puts it, the Net-a-Porter partnership “breaks new ground” in terms of quality and price point. The jacquard-trimmed twill jumpsuit here ($415) is a subtle riff on the uniforms worn in the Quarter Quell. For those of you who haven’t read the books, that’s the 75th annual Hunger Games competition around which most of the action in the second part of the trilogy takes place. Summerville is currently at work on Gone Girl with Dragon Tattoo director David Fincher. The bad news for fans of Gillian Flynn’s page-turner? “It’s a completely contemporary film,” says the costume designer. “I don’t see a ready-to-wear collection coming out of it.”

Here Comes Trouble: Taylor Swift to Sing for Victoria’s Secret

Sorry, Beliebers, it would seem that the pop star is too busy planning bike heists to make a repeat appearance at this year’s Victoria’s Secret fashion show. Taylor Swift, it was confirmed today, will take the stage during tomorrow’s runway romp alongside Fall Out Boy, A Great Big World, and Neon Jungle. The announcement dispels earlier rumors that One Direction would perform—and we’re not terribly surprised that the band isn’t on the docket. A lingerie show is no place for a quintet of impressionable young boys (or, apparently, Swift’s ex-boyfriends).

Skeeve McQueen! Upper East Side fashion store boss called me ‘burrito face,’ Latina's bias suit claims

A TOP BRITISH fashion house was hit with its second discrimination lawsuit this year after a Hispanic saleswoman said she was forced to endure ethnic and personal slurs for a decade.

Moselle Blanco, a former saleswoman at Alexander McQueen’s flagship store in Manhattan, accuses her bosses of calling her names like “burrito face” and “Goya princess,” and turning a deaf ear to her complaints, in a lawsuit filed Wednesday in Manhattan Supreme Court.

Blanco says one sales manager in particular, Max Cantey, singled her out, spreading vicious rumors about her over her decade-long career at the designer store, according to court papers filed Wednesday in State Supreme Court.

CHALK of the Town

Over six years ago, former Hollywood stylist and Kitson buyer Christina Minasian launched the contemporary label Pencey (famously named after Holden Caufield’s fictional private school in The Catcher in the Rye). It has become known for its trend-driven staples with a preppy yet rebellious twist, as well as recent capsule collaborations with It girls like Mia Moretti and Jessica Hart. While Minasian will continue to take a playful approach at Pencey, this season, the designer debuts CHALK—a new line with a decidedly more refined and timeless look. “The name reflects its clean aesthetic. I wanted to do something that focused on style more than trend, and create classic pieces that will last in your wardrobe at an affordable price point, ” Minasian said at a preview this week. “The CHALK customer still aims to stand out and express her identity, but she doesn’t want to look like she works at Urban Outfitters or hangs out on St. Mark’s Place.” Highlights from the Spring ’14 collection (which debuts here on Style.com) include slouchily tailored suiting separates, a flirty cap sleeve shift, a cool bomber jacket whipped up from white lace re-embroidered with leather, and a poplin shirtdress backed in herringbone-patterned silk. That crisp number, in particular, felt polished and of-the-moment.

CHALK’s Spring collection ($75-$385) will be sold on Shopbop.com and at Madison boutique in Los Angeles.

Fendi’s Getting Shady for Spring ’15

While the rest of us are still mulling over the Spring ’14 collections, which debuted on runways only weeks ago, Fendi is already looking ahead to Spring ’15. Sure, it may seem a little early to start thinking about what we’ll be wearing more than a year from now, but the house has a good reason for the jump-start. Today, Fendi announced that it will release a Spring ’15 capsule collection with eyewear designer Thierry Lasry (left), who’s best known for his hypersleek, sexy shades. The partnership marks Lasry’s first collaboration with a luxury fashion house. Between this, its buggy bags, and Spring ’14′s Delfina Delettrez-designed jewelry (remember those furry little ear cuffs?), we’d say Fendi is seriously upping its cool factor.

Gigi Burris’ Head Games

Though scads of new designers enter the ready-to-wear arena every year, it’s rare to come across a promising young milliner, which places Gigi Burris in a creative class of her own. After launching her namesake line in 2009, the New York-based hat maker quickly developed a following (and an impressive list of editorial credits) for her statement-making chapeaux that combine old-world techniques with contemporary finishes. Burris’ latest Spring lineup was inspired by “decayed art deco and the former glory of Miami Beach,” she told Style.com at a preview this week. Those ideas were most evident in pieces like a sculpted buckram sun hat trimmed with ostrich feathers as well as hand-painted turkey plume fascinators and chantilly lace turbans. On the more modern end of the spectrum, she showed edgy, asymmetric leather visors that resembled bird beaks and petite straw bibi featuring clean metallic hardware and the stripped-down spine of a feather. “I try to keep it from seeming too English or mature. My customers aren’t fussy old ladies or Alexander Wang girls, but the look is still downtown,” she said.

Gigi Burris is carried by select retailers including Collete, Kirna Zabete, and the Webster, and sold online at Moda Operandi. For more information, visit gigiburris.com.

Helena Christensen Designs With Women In Mind

Being a bona fide supermodel, Helena Christensen knows a thing or two about looking good in lingerie. Perhaps that’s why, in 2012, classic European negligee brand Triumph tapped the icon to design a collection just for the company. Today, Christensen and Triumph debut their fourth outing together and, thanks to the latter’s concurrent launch of U.S. e-commerce, the collaboration will now, for the first time, be available Stateside.

H&M Hosts Stylish Bash For Isabel Marant Collection

As if there wasn’t enough excitement surrounding the Isabel Marant for H&M collection, the fabulous duo hosted a stylish party to celebrate the collaboration in Paris last night.

A star-studded guest list, including Frieda Pinto, Alice Dellal, Audrey Tautou and January Jones, then proceeded to arrive wearing pieces from the new collection.

With the fashion pack flocking to the designer’s hometown, Marant adopted a nineties theme as a nod to the decade in which she launch her eponymous label in the same city.

Karlie Kloss Hops On Two Wheels And Rides Around New York For Coach Ad

Karle Kloss looked like any other stylish NYC girl-about-town when she saddled up on her vintage bicycle and took it for a spin round the streets for her al-fresco photoshoot for Coach.
The all-American supermodel, who is now a resident New Yorker after moving to the fashion capital from her hometown of St Louis, was seen parading the latest wares from the US label on the packed pavements of the busy fashion capital.
Paying homage to the '80s in an oversized grey and white snakeskin mac belted at the waist, 21-year-old Karlie made sure to inject some sexy sass into her autumn-ready outfit by flashing her high-shine pins whilst posing on her retro ride.
Coach's world famous leather goods added a touch of luxury to the fresh and fun ensemble, with a beige shoulder bag and white sandals proving the perfect accessories for Karlie's trusty trench.
Whatever Ms. Kloss is selling, we're buying!

Catty Karl

If there’s one thing that the Internet and Karl Lagerfeld have in common, it’s an intense (bordering on unsettling) love of cats. The former has its “Lol” variety, the latter, his darling Choupette. Today, WWD reports that Lagerfeld has taken his obsession to the next level and will release a collection of Choupette-inspired kitty-themed accessories, ranging from handbags and beanies to whisker-embellished fingerless leather gloves. Should you want to get your paws on it, the capsule will be available this holiday season exclusively at Karl Lagerfeld stores.

Andrew Richardson: Downtown and Dirty

Sex and streetwear aren’t the most obvious bedfellows, but editor, stylist, and all-around provocateur Andrew Richardson has united them in his new store, Richardson. “I don’t know if there is a logical connection between sex and streetwear, but I always thought that streetwear was sexy and cool,” he mused between puffs on a cigarette. “There’s always an attitude, and I think that’s sexy—sexy confidence.” That may be so, but his shop, which opens this Friday at 325 Broome Street in New York, sells swag that’s arguably more perverse than confidence-boosting hoodies.

Versace and the Haas Brothers Strike Gold

“I was shaking,” said Simon Haas of the first time he met Donatella Versace. Clearly, he and brother Nikolai have gotten over their initial nerves, because last night at Versace’s Soho store, the designers celebrated their second capsule for the house. Displayed in all its gilded glory, the range of homewares and fashion objects (available starting today) was no doubt worthy of the Versace name. A golden honeycomb and Medusa iPhone cover was a hit among guests (the brothers made matching compact mirrors, cigarette cases, and lighter holders, too), and the black and gold shackle cuffs, clutches, and belts; Medusa-pendant chains; and clever tie clips looked as though they could walk down Donatella’s runway. On the objet d’ art front, there were leopard statuettes in exotic colors, and rounding out the offering was an assortment of printed T-shirts covered in a mélange of Versace iconography. “The [black and gold] one was actually just the cover of our presentation,” said Simon, “but Donatella loved it so much that she told us it had to be a T-shirt. She’s the most supportive, visionary person ever.”

After the cocktail party, the likes of Waris Ahluwalia, Michael Avedon, Patrick Li, and Maria Cornejo headed to the Mercer Kitchen for an intimate dinner. And considering guests are always late to fashion fetes, it was somewhat surprising that nearly all the invitees turned up promptly at 8:30. “Of course, everyone’s on time,” said Cornejo, laughing, who just returned from an emotional trip to her native Chile. “They’re on time because there’s food!”

Richard Haines Lends His Hand to JvdF

Today marks the relaunch of accessory designer Justin von der Fehr’s Web site. And to celebrate his new platform—and his latest collection—von der Fehr tapped illustrator Richard Haines to create a series of unique drawings. “I wanted to create an interesting story incorporating JvdF and just thought—Richard,” von der Fehr said of the illustrations, which highlight some of his key pieces for the launch, including a simple suede wrap bracelet, a hand-etched solid 14-karat gold lighter case, and a solid 14-karat gold toggle pill case. Known for his unique approach to what he calls “necessary luxuries,” von der Fehr makes all of his objects right here in New York City—which is another reason he partnered with Haines. “Richard is the quintessential New Yorker,” said von der Fehr, adding that he admired the artist for his ability to stay true to himself throughout his career in fashion and, now, illustration.

For his part, Haines relished the opportunity to draw from a model. “For me, a drawing is all about a good, pure line, capturing a moment or gesture, and a loose way of applying color,” Haines explained. Their compatibility in design informs the collection, which is meant to convey originality and the spirit of the Big Apple. “I’d like to think all those elements are working in the series,” said Haines. Side by side, the drawings and accessories achieve a striking contrast of luxe detail and simplicity.

With prices ranging from $85 to $1,395, JvdF’s new collection is available at jvdfnyc.com, Neiman Marcus, and Neimanmarcus.com.

Marks & Spencer Wow With Best Of British Collection

M&S is celebrating the best of British fashion with a capsule collection rich in design and textile heritage.

Aptly described as ‘elegantly androgynous’, the 32-piece womenswear collection includes timeless tailoring, muted hues, monochrome and pops of electric pink.

The must-see collection also sees the beginning of M&S’ three-year partnership with the British Fashion Council, which aims to update the high-street with finest fabrics, including luxe Scottish cashmere and traditional Yorkshire cloths.

And what does it mean for us? With prices starting from just £39.50, M&S have crafted a premium collection with genuinely accessible pieces that even the strictest of shoppers can find excuse to invest in.

Between the black and grey mix suits, check cocoon coat and classic brogues, the collection boasts a wide-leg trouser that has Kate Moss inspiration written all over them.

Marks & Spencer’s Best Of British collection is available to shop in store and online now.

But which pieces will sell out first?

Jimmy Choo Co-Founder Tamara Mellon Launches Debut Clothing Line

Tamara Mellon made her name as the co-founder of Jimmy Choo, and now the shoe supremo has turned clothing queen with her debut collection.

Featuring luxe fabrics, cool laser cuts, subtle sprays of sequins and a heavy hit of leopard print, the 46-year-old's eponymous line is the perfect mix of classic staples and statement buys.

London-born Tamara, who parted ways with the iconic shoe brand in 2011, bucked the fashion week trend of showing her range months ahead of its release, telling Bloomberg: 'We're living in a world where women want to buy now wear now. They don't want to look at shows and then have products in stores six months later.'

The Surprising Way Victoria Beckham Makes All Her Money

Victoria Beckham is in the black. Her fashion business has just disclosed a 2012 profit of £1.5 million pounds; a definite turn up for the books from the previous year's slightly dismal loss of £1.6 million.

How has this company managed to turn things around so quickly? The Telegraph reveals that documents from Companies House suggest it was the business's diffusion line, Victoria Victoria Beckham that saved the day. The label has prices that start at £495, a sum that for many is well out of their financial comfort zone. But, when you think that a dress from the main collection starts at £1,300, suddenly it seems like a steal for a piece of a so-hot-right-now designer. Judging by the SS'14 Victoria Victoria Beckham dress that the designer wore straight after the main-label show this September, we can safely predict that this label and this designer will continue to drive sales, expectations, and fabulous designs in the upcoming year, at the very least.

How About Them Apples? Apologie Debuts Handbags

Olivia Cognet, the designer behind Paris-based footwear brand Apologie, scored a huge hit this Fall with her “eye” slippers. For Spring ’14, she’s branching out and spinning her surrealist aesthetic into handbags, too. “I love the idea of a [bag] that you can wear like a bijou with a little black dress,” says the designer of her hand-molded, apple-shaped purses, which come in tutti-frutti-colored kid suede, from bonbon pink, turquoise, and vermillion to navy and black. “There’s something poetic about wearing forbidden fruit,” she adds. Priced at about $746, Apologie’s apples land in select international retailers this January..

Punctuation Meets Punk At Roger Vivier

Long before there was the red sole, there was the “comma” shoe—also known as Roger Vivier’s Virgule. Launched in 1963, the shoe, famous for its curved heel, is the stuff of fashion lore. Last week, a major Vivier retrospective opened at the Palais de Tokyo in Paris, Virgule etc.…In the footsteps of Roger Vivier, and yup, the shoe earned top billing out of the immense body of work from the man who considered himself an architect and an inventor first, and a shoemaker by happenstance. Vivier and his Virgule’s world tour stops in London tomorrow at Selfridges Shoe Galleries—the largest shoe department in the world and an undisputed mecca for shoe lovers. It is here where the house will open its first shop in an event hosted by Inès de la Fressange, current creative consultant for Vivier, and designer Bruno Frisoni. It is all part of an international expansion of the brand, which has already seen shops opened this year in Japan and China.

The housewife who stole 905 designer bags worth $800,000

SOME women would do anything to own a designer handbag.

And for Jayne Rand that meant simply helping herself to one whenever she went shopping.

In just three years she managed to amass a collection 905 bags in a shoplifting spree that netted a haul worth more that $800,000.

The outwardly "quiet and respectable" 48-year-old housewife helped herself to luxury brands including Mulberry, Prada, Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Dior and Burberry - some priced at more than $1700 each.

Marc Jacobs confirms he is leaving Louis Vuitton after 16 years; to concentrate on IPO of Marc Jacobs brand

MARC Jacobs, the US designer credited with transforming Louis Vuitton from "stodgy luggage house" to global fashion giant on Wednesday received a standing ovation as news of his departure broke.

The US designer with a flair for showmanship is wrapping up his 16-year tenure to concentrate on a stock exchange flotation of his own brand Marc Jacobs, estimated by market sources to be "approaching the billion-dollar leagues".

Under his stewardship, Louis Vuitton has become one of the most sought after luxury brands, particularly in the lucrative Asian market, with "Vuitton mania" regularly prompting round-the-block queues outside the brand's stores.

Dress Like A Supermodel…Again

It’s back. Topshop announced today that it’s reigniting its hyper-successful collaboration with Kate Moss. Moss worked on fourteen collections for the high street retailer between 2007 and 2010, all of which were inspired by her own saucy, bohemian style. So why did the model decide Spring ’14 was the right time to revive the range? “I have really missed being involved in the design process, and working with the team at TOPSHOP,” she said in a press release. “Now more than ever with London being at the forefront of fashion…it feels like I’m back home working with TOPSHOP.” Moss is currently designing the lineup with Topshop’s creative director Kate Phelan. The new offering will hit stores worldwide in April 2014.

The State Of Texas Vs. Prada Marfa

Even if you’ve never seen Prada Marfa—and unless you’ve made a pilgrimage to rural Texas’ unlikely outpost of conceptual art, you probably haven’t—you’ve no doubt heard of it. The eerie adobe installation in the middle of the Texas desert was created by the artists Michael Elmgreen and Ingar Dragset in 2005. Though it is made to resemble a store, it is arguably more of a sculpture, given that it’s not open for business (or open at all—the doors are permanently locked). And it is not an official Prada location, though Elmgreen and Dragset did receive the company’s permission to use the logo, and the house donated Prada bags and shoes for the windows, albeit bottomless bags and only right shoes to prevent looting.

House of Versace Is Coming to a TV Screen Near You

Among designers, Donatella Versace’s story is one of the more dramatic ones. Here is a woman who has dealt with family tragedy, betrayal, addiction, and disapproving male authorities, and seems to have come out fabulously on top. You might say her tale has the makings of a Lifetime movie.

Which is exactly what it is now. Last night, the likes of Helena Christensen and Michael Stipe headed to the Museum of Modern Art, where the network screened its new biopic, House of Versace, with the Cinema Society. Like the book on which it’s based—Deborah Ball’s attention-getting 2010 exposé —the telefilm is unauthorized by its subject. The house of Versace didn’t participate in the Lifetime movie and dismissed it in a recent statement as “a work of fiction.”

We’ll Take Fries With That

Paris-based designer Ligia Dias has a talent for taking unusual found objects—nuts and bolts, say, or, for Spring, mussels and fries—and turning them into jewelry people really want to wear. Dias’s surrealist moules frites Spring ’14 stems from her long-standing fascination with Belgian artist Marcel Broodthaers. “He never worked with Schiaparelli, but he could have,” the designer noted. “For me, just the shell represents surrealism in a simplified way.” Worked into a chunky necklace, statement earrings, or charm bracelets, they bring a certain quirky chic to the table.

Hey Samsung, the Dumbwatch Industry Has You Beat

Swatch (UHR:VX) has made a self-winding timepiece with just 51 components. As Samsung (005930:KS) and other tech giants race to bring smartwatches to the public, slashing the number of moving parts in a timepiece is what counts as an extraordinary advance in the 500-year-old dumbwatch industry.

The latest from Swatch doesn’t send e-mail or measure your pulse. It won’t display pictures or make phone calls. The pitch, in fact, makes the new product sound like the anti-smartwatch: “Never before,” promises Swatch, “has simplicity been made so intriguing and surprising.” But it’s likely to deliver one thing that may very well prove beyond the reach of the companies turning out wristband computers: healthy, predictable sales.

Want to Sell Cologne? Add 'Sport' to the Name

Men want to smell good. Of course, “good” here means something entirely different from Japanese cherry blossom or Cashmere glow or any of the other fancy scents marketed to women. Judging by recent cologne sales, men apparently want to smell like athletes. (Which, if you think about it for two seconds, probably isn’t that good at all.)

Regardless, so-called “sports fragrances” have been growing at a rapid clip. According to NPD Group, in the 12 months ended June, U.S. department store sales of sports fragrances (which NPD defines as brands with “sport” in the name) were $40.8 million, up 16 percent year on year. That’s much faster than the 5 percent growth in sales for all men’s fragrances.

Some men’s deodorants also put “sport” in their labels, but that at least makes some sense—if you’re playing sports, you’ll need deodorant. But no sport requires a spritz of fragrant oil to the neck or body—with the possible exception of wrestling, where you can be extra polite to the dude who’s about to put you in a headlock.

These sporty man smells now represent 4.3 percent of the market. The top seller, according to NPD, is One Sport from Dolce & Gabbana. From its official description: “a fresh, clean fragrance with light and energetic top notes accompanied by an unmistakable Mediterranean aroma of rosemary, the freshness of water and saltiness of the sea.” In other words: exactly what hockey pads smell like.

Pleats and Thank You

Pleating, in various iterations, unfurled as a keynote trend this season. Alexander Wang, for example, offered boxy swatches on miniskirts in New York. Also crimped in Manhattan: Victoria Beckham‘s peekaboo accordion creases. And, in Paris, Phoebe Philo caused a stir with loads of narrow corrugations at Céline. Yet where these designers skewed toward traditional folding, a trio of labels proposed a fancier twist on the technique for Spring ’14 via intricate pleats that mimicked ruffles.

At Delpozo, creative director Josep Font’s barley-yellow trousers, which boasted an arc of frilled pin-tucks, were a standout in his soft, painterly collection. In Paris, Dries Van Noten opened his show with a quiet white frock, the seams of which were embellished with whorls of gilded fabric. Bottega Veneta’s Tomas Maier, too, employed creased ruffles in his Spring ’14 lineup. One dress in particular—a gray-green number vertically veined in bow-like folds—was particularly striking. “I wanted to add texture and dimension in an unusual way,” Maier told Style.com. “The monochrome color, combined with the movement of the pleats, creates this effect.” To construct the garment, Maier and his team blended cotton with a vegetable fiber called ramie, which possesses malleable characteristics akin to copper. The result was a tactile sartorial sculpture.

Jen Kao Shutters 6-Year-Old Label

It's a disappointing day for Jen Kao fans. Kao is the NYC-based designer who recently opened her spring 2014 show by bringing two fluffy hound dogs on the runway, if you recall. But theatrics and catwalk shows aside, Kao has been a popular designer since she emerged on the scene six years ago, selling her feminine, artistic threads at boutiques and online sites like Owen NYC, Satine in Los Angeles, Shopbop, and Moda Operandi.

Unfortunately, her exit is due to health reasons, according to a company spokeswoman who talked to WWD, and her spring line won't be produced, making resort her last (buy it in stores come November 30). It is said that about 25 people who worked for Kao will be affected by this shuttering.

"Jen Kao always makes pieces that stand out. Whether it is her signature cutouts in unexpected ways, or her amazing leather pieces, she knows how to design for a city woman with kick-ass style," said Owen NYC's owner Phillip Salem via WWD. "It makes me sad to see Jen Kao shut down for a little, but I am hoping to see her make a huge comeback after this hiatus."

China’s E-commerce Giants Offer Opportunity for Entrepreneurs

JIAXING, China —  “The year 2013 will be remembered as the one in which China surpassed the US as the world’s largest digital retail market,” wrote the author of a report released by Bain & Company, a consulting firm, in August 2013, noting the country’s 564 million Internet users and 242 million e-shoppers. “Online retailing already totals 6 percent of all purchases,” continued the report. Meanwhile, in the apparel sector, e-commerce sales make up an even greater slice of the overall pie: around 13 percent, according to estimates by iResearch.

But for the most part, Chinese e-commerce is dominated by a few domestic giants, including Taobao, Vancl, M18 and JingDong. Indeed, the top five players control 65 percent of China’s online retail market, according to Atelier Paribas. In fact, Taobao alone — which consists of Taobao Marketplace, a consumer-to-consumer marketplace that is China’s answer to Ebay, and Tmall, a business-to-consumer retail site on which brands can open and operate their own e-commerce stores — accounts for over 50 percent of all online retail spending.

Words of the Wild

Crusader is as much of a job descriptor for Vivienne Westwood as fashion designer. And among her agendas, no cause resonates more acutely than her crusade to fight climate change. For Spring ’14, the designer sent out models in plastered-and-fractured makeup at Vivienne Westwood Red Label, the effect of which she likened to animals being “trapped” in the headlights. One look, a strapless brocade dress in pale gold and lavender, topped a ratty T-shirt that read “Climate.” Here, the message rang loud and clear. Moreover, Westwood gave out pre-addressed postcards to U.N. Secretary General Ban Ki-moon, instructing editors to write down their own ecological apprehensions.

Nicholas Kirkwood’s Spring Escape

Nicholas Kirkwood has never been to Morocco, but for Spring ’14, he’s in a Marrakech state of mind. High-perched styles include lacy, laser-cut leathers and raffia heels in bright orange with fuchsia details that play with a cool seventies sports feel, while a new line of super-soft moccasins in hot colors seems to point to bright horizons. But the designer’s not headed for sunny climes anytime soon: “The industry doesn’t really let you do that anymore—as soon as I’m done with this collection, I’m already late for pre-collection!” That and Kirkwood’s newly signed partnership with LVMH (“They’re the best partner you could dream of,” he said) will keep him plenty busy. On the agenda: more staff, more shops, and more smart day options, like his first thong sandal and a cork-sole moccasin that picks up on elements of the men’s collection. He’s also gearing up to “capture fashion in midheight”—to that end, he has just secured the patent to his signature triangular heel. The blowout vacation will just have to wait.

Alexander Wang for Balenciaga: 'This time, I got my feet wet'

Technically, this week's Balenciaga show was the second womenswear collection on Alexander Wang's watch. But this was the real debut. In hindsight, the first, in February, was merely a prologue. This was the first time he stamped his signature New York sportswear influence on the label. "Last season was an homage," the California-born designer said backstage on Thursday. "It felt important to begin correctly, by paying tribute. And then this time, I got my feet wet."

These Conceptual Coats Are Toogood

After starting out at the magazine World of Interiors and working with Comme des Garçons, Hermès, and Opening Ceremony as well as doing those runway sets for Kenzo, furniture designer Faye Toogood is collaborating with her pattern-cutter sister, Erica, on a new collection of eight coats that is simply called Toogood. Inspired by the notions of individuality and the laborer, the idea was born a year and a half ago, when the sisters both felt frustrated with their respective industries and decided to create a line inspired by the workwear from specific trades: the beekeeper, the road sweeper, the chemist, and the mechanic, among others. “I wanted to create garments that are very simple to work in, to move in, to go out in, almost like the uniform that the workers would be wearing,” explains Faye. “I kept talking to Erica about finishes, and she asked me, ‘What do you mean finishes? In fashion we don’t have finishes, we have textiles.’” The coats are all made out of hard-wearing materials fitting to staunch tradespeople—think the waxed cotton of an oil rigger and vulcanized rubber and simple utilitarian canvas. As the sisters are fascinated with the process—from design and production to sales and, finally, the buyer and wearer—each garment is made in the U.K. and carries a label inside that works as a passport, listing and crediting each person that has been involved in getting the coat to the customer. Straddling both the furniture and the fashion worlds, Erica and Faye’s individual practices can be traced in the form and materiality of the collection, as the garments are unisex and simple in their pure geometric form. Each style—two of which debut exclusively here—comes in six sizes to enhance or disguise the body of the wearer as he or she wishes. Toogood will launch this Saturday at Paris fashion week with a presentation by Faye.

Toogood will be available in concept stores internationally starting in January. For more information, visit www.t-o-o-g-o-o-d.com

The Ultimate Isabel Marant x H&M Wish List

We’ve had our calendars marked for November 14 since the day we found out about Isabel Marant’s upcoming H&M collaboration. Though we still have several weeks until the designer’s signature French-cool, boho-chic pieces hit stores worldwide, the lookbook just leaked and it does not disappoint. Hint: Those infamous fringed boots that fashion cognoscenti went wild for a few seasons back are on offer. Here, a primer on what to snag when the store doors open the morning of the 14th.

Is Donatella Versace Fashion’s Sexiest Feminist?

Feminism is emerging as a strong Spring ’14 theme—just look at Prada’s triumphant parade of girl power or Eddie Borgo’s Riot Grrrl-inspired range. Donatella Versace, who sent her skin-baring collection down the runway on Friday, joined the conversation this weekend, sounding off about feminism and sexy frocks in an interview with The Independent. “Every woman likes sex. If they don’t like it, they should go to a shrink!” she said in reference to her sultry wares. “I’m not talking about sex-shop dresses, but dresses that can help you look better than you are and more confident…. When you are confident wearing certain kinds of clothes, you are more confident about your ideas and have more courage to say…your opinions,” she explained, later adding, “Sexy clothes don’t only express ‘I want sex,’ but courage. ‘This is me, this is my courage. You need to confront me.” She definitely has a point—power dressing comes in all silhouettes and shades these days. However, we have a feeling that a sheer V-neck gown cut down to here might tempt one’s company to focus on something other than her “opinions.”

Forget Me Knot

Thanks to a pretty significant headgear fetish, this editor has lost countless hours in front of the mirror, trying to tie scarves into the perfect turban. So you can imagine my surprise, delight, and quasi frustration when I discovered Hermès’ brand-new iPhone app, Silk Knots—a program complete with videos, diagrams, and photos that show you how to fashion the ultimate head scarf. The app also details how to transform your scarf into a belt, a top, or a dress, as well as unexpected new ways to achieve an ideal drape around your neck. The app is free on iTunes—the Hermès scarf, however, is not.

Christopher Kane To Open First Flagship Store In London

As if we weren't excited enough about Christopher Kane's Spring Summer 2014 presentation today, the designer has just announced that his company is to open its first flagship store on London's iconic Mount Street.

The shop, which is due to open by the end of 2014 will join the likes of Lavin, Marc Jacobs and Vivienne Westwood on Mayfair's swanky shopping destination.

Christopher Kane, Creative Director, and Tammy Kane, Deputy Creative Director of the brand, commented: "This is an incredibly exciting time for us. To have our own retail space gives us the chance to showcase our collections and to really express our vision. To open in London first was really important to us as this is where our label was born.”

Hudson’s Bay Hires Harrods Chief Merchant McKee to Run Saks

NEW YORK, United States — Hudson’s Bay Co., the Canadian department store chain that’s acquiring Saks Inc. for $2.4 billion, hired Marigay McKee, Harrods’ chief merchant, to be president of the U.S. luxury retailer once the deal is complete.

Stephen Sadove, Saks’s current chief executive officer, and Ron Frasch, the retailer’s president, will leave when the transaction is complete, according to a statement from Toronto- based Hudson’s Bay today. The deal is expected to close by the end of the year. McKee is a 14-year veteran of London-based Harrods, Europe’s largest department store.

Hudson’s Bay Chief Executive Officer Richard Baker said when the acquisition was announced in July that he intended to run Saks as a separate operation, still based in New York, and would retain existing management. The parent company’s three chains, Hudson’s Bay, Lord & Taylor, and Saks Fifth Avenue will retain their own identities, he said at the time.

Linda Farrow Fetes the Big 1-0

By now, the Linda Farrow story is one of lore. Ten years ago, Tracy Sedino and her boyfriend, Simon Jablon (Linda Farrow’s table tennis-champ son), were redecorating an old warehouse that belonged to his designer mom. And by pure fortune, they discovered a box filled with old sunglasses that Linda had created for Balenciaga, Dior, and YSL in the seventies. The rest is history.

Ten years on and happily married to Jablon, Sedino has been busy fulfilling her mother-in-law’s design dream that was put aside for love, marriage, and children. In the past decade, with Jablon quarterbacking the business angle, Sedino has developed the Linda Farrow brand to an extreme: Their stand-alone products have drawn a legion of fans (think Rihanna, Gaga, Queen Bey, Madonna), and their collaborations have raised the bar even higher. Jeremy Scott, Erdem, Dries Van Noten, Oscar de la Renta, The Row, and Matthew Williamson are just a few designers with whom the brand has worked hand in hand.

The CFDA Incubator Talents Show Their Stuff

“I think it’s like a football game,” explained womenswear designer Jonathan Simkhai from his brightly lit studio in the CFDA’s Incubator. “They’re sitting on the sides like a cheerleader, rooting you on, but it’s up to you to make the goal and score the point—and they’ll definitely run with you all the way to the finish line.” He’s talking about his experience thus far in the Incubator, the much-lauded CFDA program that each year takes ten young brands and helps them develop their businesses through rent-subsidized studio space and continuous mentoring over the course of two years.

Kate Moss covers The Edit, NET-A-PORTER’s digital magazine

Style icon and supermodel Kate Moss fronts this week’s issue of The Edit, NET-A-PORTER’s digital magazine helmed by former Bazaar editor Lucy Yeomans.

With London Fashion Week fast approaching, the issue focuses on Kate’s much-copied London look. From biker jackets to beauty, it’s jam-packed with tips and tricks on how to steal her style, as well as a piece by writer Jo Craven “Anatomy of a Muse” that charts Kate’s best outfits over her extraordinary career

For the cover shoot, Moss donned Alberta Ferretti and Alexander McQueen dresses to step onto a volcanic-inspired set as envisaged by artist Mat Collishaw and inspired by the model’s “fiery temperament.”

As well as penning the accompanying piece to the shoot, editor Yeomans sums up Kate’s appeal in her opening letter to the issue: “Whether dancing with choreographer Michael Clark for Alexander McQueen, stepping out with Johnny Depp or sitting for Lucian Freud, she has always enthralled, seeming somehow both everyday yet totally out of this world.” We couldn’t agree more.

OPI Creates Limited-Edition Nail Polish in Honor of Sandy Hook Elementary School

Sandy Hook Promise and OPI have partnered to create a new nail color, Sandy Hook Green. Starting today, with a donation of $26 or more to Sandy Hook Promise, you’ll receive a bottle of the limited-edition shade. Not only will your funds provide aid to the families affected by the tragic shooting at Sandy Hook Elementary School, but it will also allow Sandy Hook Promise to continue their efforts to create an open dialogue about school safety and gun responsibility. Help them advocate for change by painting on a coat of this chic vibrant green.

Versace Said in Talks to Raise 250 Million Euros Via Stake Sale

MILAN, Italy — Gianni Versace SpA is in talks to raise about 250 million euros ($333 million) through a stake sale to help finance the fashion house’s expansion, said people with knowledge of the situation.

The Milan-based company is in discussions with IQ Made in Italy Venture, a partnership set up by Qatar Holding LLC and a unit of Italy’s Cassa Depositi e Prestiti SpA, said one of the people, who asked not to be named as the matter is private. Versace also is talking with other potential investors, said one of the people.

Qatar Holding, a unit of the Persian Gulf emirate’s sovereign wealth fund, and CDP’s Fondo Strategico Italiano SpA set up the joint venture last year to invest as much as 2 billion euros in Italian companies in industries such as fashion and luxury goods. Versace plans to sell a minority stake privately before offering shares to the public in three to five years, Chief Executive Officer Gian Giacomo Ferraris said this month.

Dolce & Gabbana Closing Might Happen To Pay Tax Evasion Fine, Designers Say

Dolce & Gabbana are not happy. In June, they were convicted of tax evasion and sentenced to one year and eight months in jail. They and three other defendants were also ordered to pay back about $670,000 each.

The high-end design duo isn't taking this one lying down, though. They've been fervent in their pleas for support since the conviction, and they are continuing their last ditch appeals in the court of public opinion. The Telegraph now reports that both Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana claim that their fashion house will have to close production if the are forced to pay the high fee:

Peter Som to Collaborate with Kohl’s

It was recently announced that Peter Som will be teaming up with Kohl’s for the retailer’s latest designer collaboration.

The collab will be part of the Kohl’s DesigNation line, which features limited-edition designer capsule collections inspired by international destinations. For his upcoming spring collection, Som was inspired by the tropical locale of St. Barth’s.

Som spoke to WWD about his DesigNation collection:

“I love print, pattern and color. Some of the prints in the collection are based on things in St. Barth’s, done in my slightly abstract way. There are palm trees and flowers. It’s done through the filter of what I love. The collection has a nice easy feeling, which I think is the way women dress now. We have some great maxi dresses. There are bomber-style jackets and great jersey pieces. It’s effortless dressing. For me, it was great working with Kohl’s. It shows it’s possible to create effortless style at a great price point.”

The collection will be available exclusively at Kohl’s stores and online starting in Spring 2014, with prices ranging from $36 to $88.